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Lost in Translation


Back in Bangkok my parents and I planned a bit of our trip through Southeast Asia: a jungle trek near Chiang Mai, the slow boat to Luang Prabang, then on to Vientiane. We were met with a blank stare from the guy working at the travel agency when we mentioned Vientiane. "Why would you want to go toe Vientiane?' he asked. 'There's nothing to do there. Nothing.'
It probably won't surprise you that we went to Vientiane anyway. Laos as a country is already majorly neglected by most tourists, but its even worse for its capital Vientiane. It's not more or less mythical like Luang Prabang, you can't go tubing like in Vang Vieng and there are no creepy-looking river dolphins like in Pakze. Still there's plenty of reason to visit Vientiane. Let me tell you why you should go there!


#1: Big city, small town feel
There's this thing about Asian cities: they're freaking crazy and chaotic. Vientiane is not really like that though. It is a quite big city, but honestly feels like a small town. Most cities in Southeast Asia drained me both physically and mentally, but not Vientiane. Even the crowded places weren't as crowded as I was used to. Most of the major landmarks are well within walking distance and crossing the street is more or less safe. As far as cities go, Vientiane is laid-back for Southeast Asian standards.


#2: Lao Arc de Triomphe
If you're into pretty buildings and want to see some French influences from the colonial area, you have to go see the Patuxay. It's an unfinished victory arch which the Lao call ugly (they even put a sign on the thing saying it looks like a block of concrete), but it's actually pretty awesome. The Patuxay is an amazing mix between European architecture and Lao culture. The walls are decorated with frescoes in Southeast Asian style, just like the windows on top. Yes, you can climb to the top of the Patuxay. It's about four stories high, with gift shops full of communist clothes on every level. Once you reach the top you'll have a great view of all of Vientiane, especially the presidential palace. It's also vertigo friendly; I usually get vertigo as soon as I'm three meters up in the air, but managed to climb the Patuxay without wetting my pants.

#3: Say Wat?
Okay, terrible joke, but I had to make it at least once while writing about Southeast Asia. Vientiane has plenty of wats, Buddhist temples. For those who suffer from temple fatigue (i.e. having seen so many temples they all look the same now) because of previous trips to Southeast Asia, it's still worth going on a temple tour. The architecture is slightly different from that of Thai and Cambodian temples and some are also museums. Wat Ho Phra Keo for example is full of ancient Buddha icons. The exterior walls are covered in amazing mosaics and there's a little temple garden. If you want to visit a temple with more historical significance you can go to Wat Sisaket, the only temple that survived the Siamese-Lao war of 1828.
Apart from loads of other, smaller and unknown wats there are also a few stupas, oddly shaped buildings containing relics. So if you're looking for culture. Vientiane has enough to offer.


#4: COPE Visitor Centre
My number 1 recommendation for Vientiane is and always will be the COPE Visitor Centre on the grounds of the Centre for Medical Rehabilitation. COPE is an organization that helps handicapped people by providing them with the prosthetics and rehabilitation they need, free of charge for those too poor to afford it. The Visitor Centre tells the story of Laos' Cold War history, the victims US bombs make to this day and the way COPE helps people overcome their handicap. There is no entrance fee, but donations are massively appreciated so COPE can provide more people with the medical help they need. You must be completely heartless if a visit to COPE doesn't break your heart and restore your faith in humanity at the same time.

#5: The Mekong river banks
I have a thing for river banks. I hate swimming in rivers because there's fish in the water, but I love sitting on a river bank and watch life on the water pass by. This is much more fun on the banks of the Mekong in Vientiane than... let's say the Maas in Rotterdam. During the day the river banks are quiet, the boulevard almost empty. You can go for a relaxed stroll and look at Thailand on the other side of the water.
At night the boulevard changes. The road is closed off and a market pops up. It's more of a real market, less touristy than the night market in Luang Prabang. But the funniest thing that happens on the river bank every night are the free aerobics and bootcamp classes. A guy or girl sets up some stereo equipment, climbs on a cart and gives instructions like in those group classes at the gym. It's not just great to watch, you're also free to join - which some tourists actually do on their bare feet.


All in all I see no reason not to visit Vientiane. There's nothing to do? Dear guy from the travel agency, you were wrong. You can easily spend two great days in Vientiane - and it's a perfect stop for a break from the awful roads if you take the bus from Luang Prabang to Pakze to see those weird-looking dolphins. So if you're ever asked why you'd go to Vientiane of all places, you now know the answer!

x Envy
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11 Fellow Ramblers

Lonely Planet does a good job at making hidden gems a little less hidden. Yet sometimes these places still don't get the attention they deserve. This is the case with the COPE Visitor Centre in Vientiane, Laos. My parents read about it in their Lonely Planet, wanted to go and I came along, even though a museum-like place all about prosthetics didn't sound that appealing to me. But this is Laos, and Laos is full of surprises.

We decided to walk to COPE and do some sightseeing along the way. The sightseeing went great. Finding COPE... not so much. We found ourselves in front of a red and white barrier when we came close to the Visitor Centre. A sign next to it said we were about the enter the grounds of the Centre for Medical Rehabilitation, an official Lao government institute. It didn't look like a place tourists could enter without getting sent away by angry-looking government officials, but the man in the booth next to the barrier assured us it was okay. A bit unsure I stepped onto the grounds, spotted a little sign with COPE Visitor Centre on it, followed it past the building of the Lao Paralympic Committee and then I saw it: a white building with the word 'COPE' made from old prosthetics on the front. I stepped inside. A few hours later I stepped outside a slightly different person.


Some time last century the US decided to fight communism. We all know how that went down in Vietnam, but did you know Laos suffered from this war as well? Laos was seen as a buffer between communist Vietnam and western allies Thailand and Malaysia. Now as Vietnam was turning communist it started working on the Ho Chi Minh Trail to provide the not-yet communist southern part of Vietnam with ammunition. Part of this trail went straight through Laos. Those two factors were enough for the US to bomb the shit out of Laos for nine years. It made the place the most bombed country per capita ever. To make matters worse: the US used cluster bombs, many of which never went off. This unexploded ordnance, or UXO for short, can be find all over Laos. Children play with the smaller bombs, farmers find them while working on their land, and many pay for this encounter with their life. Those who are lucky enough to survive often lose limbs and are in need of prosthetics, a product that's not easy to come by in a country like Laos.
This is the story the COPE Visitor Centre tells in its permanent exhibition. It might not have been the best idea for me to visit the place as I was a bit emotionally unstable at the time and the exhibition is very impressive and heart-breaking at times.


The first thing you see when you enter the exhibition is the UXO sculpture. It's the most photographed item and with good reason. For me it made clear what kind of fear the people of Laos must have felt when the cluster bombs fell from the sky almost every single day. I was already in tears and had only seen a sculpture.

In the rest of the first part of the exhibition I learned all about UXO, why it's there and what the consequences are. Anually the US donates a lot of money to Laos to help them clear up the American UXO (I really hope Trump doesn't put this to a stop, but I fear the worst), but there are still a lot of unexploded 'bombies' in fields and under houses. It's especially a problem in rural areas. And once those bombies go off there and a person loses a limb, they have to rely on homemade prosthetics... This is is where COPE comes in.
COPE stands for Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise, which is nice and all, but the reason why I like the name COPE is that they literally help people cope with their handicaps. This is what the second part of the exhibition is about. Loads of homemade prosthetics are on display here, some professional-looking, others barely more than a wooden peg. All of them had been used up until the point where COPE doctors found these people and gave them real prosthetics - free of charge for those to poor to pay for it.
The Visitor Centre tells the stories of these people. How they became handicapped after an UXO encounter, what materials they used to build themselves their prosthetics and how their life changed when they came into contact with COPE. The exhibition will break your heart, stitch it back up and make it feel all warm and fuzzy inside in the end.


The last part of the exhibition showed more about the rehabilitation process, with which COPE also helps. Phantom pains, teaching people how to use the prosthetics more effectively, educating local people to become doctors specialized in prosthetics, COPE does is all. I was very impressed and pretty emotional. As usual when I visit places like these I wished I could help. There wasn't much I could do (besides telling the internet about the COPE Visitor Centre), but I noticed the gift shop sells their stuff to raise funds for COPE. When I saw the postcards and tote bags designed by Colin Cotterill, one of my favorite authors. If you like detectives and want more diverse reads you should check out his books, which are set in Thailand and Laos. Of course I had to buy some things, because who cares it's a little expensive compared to other gift shops in Laos when the money goes to such a great cause and the items have been designed by one of your favorite authors?
As I already buy postcards in every city I visit, this was the first thing I went for. All the postcards are cute, but I was immediately drawn to one that said 'Broken hearts are probably the only thing we can't fix'. I found it funny, since a broken heart was the only thing I needed fixed. For some reason the postcard made me feel hopeful; my broken heart would heal with time and COPE would help those with much more serious injuries.
Then, after I'd already paid for the postcard, I decided to take a tote bag with me as well. I went for a red one that said 'Stand up for COPE', so I'd have a reason to tell everyone back home all about COPE. It was also a much fancier bag than I'd expected, with a button to close it and a small pocket with a zipper for your valuable. I just had to have it.


When I left the COPE Visitor Centre I felt this unexpected hopeful sensation in my heart. Laos is a very impoverished country, so seeing it work hard to help its people overcome their handicaps restored my faith in humanity.
If you're thinking about going to Vientiane, I couldn't recommend visiting COPE more. It's interesting for people who want to know more about Cold War history, life in Laos or living with a handicap. It's also interesting for every person who has a heart.
There is no entrance fee, so there's really no reason not to go. Even thought more and more tourists find their way to COPE, I still think it deserves more: more attention, more appreciation and more donations to help more people overcome their handicap. If you want to know more about the COPE Visitor Centre, or maybe even make a small donation, you can visit their website at copelaos.org. And if you find yourself in Vientiane, go for a visit. It's more than worth it, I promise.

x Envy
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12 Fellow Ramblers

I've said it before and I'll say it again: Laos does not get the love it deserves. Everyone obsesses over Thailand, quickly flies over to Vietnam and does a flash visit to Angkor Wat in Cambodia, but barely anyone goes to Laos. They say the weather in Laos is too bad, or that there's simply nothing to do. All lame excuses if you ask me. I actually think you'll love Laos, for these five reasons.

#1: It's off the beaten track
Like I said, most backpackers start in Thailand. Vietnam is getting hyped up at the moment, so that's the next stop. Laos seems to get forgotten, and you notice it when you meet other tourists there. Less party people and more experienced travellers visit Laos. In general there just aren't as much tourists, so it feels like more of an adventures. You'll see and meet more locals, do more things in Lao style. Thailand has already adjusted to mass tourism, Laos hasn't. You'll share buses with more locals than tourists, won't get called by tuktuk drivers every other minute and find yourself exploring more instead of following the masses. In Thailand you'll have to actively search for a hidden gem, a place that hasn't been taken over by tourists yet. In Laos that's not the case - Laos is a hidden gem itself.

#2: The rainy season is super sunny
In Thailand I met some people who'd heard the rainy season in Laos was stuff of nightmares. We were in Chiang Mai at that moment, where pouring rain fell down from the skies every day around 5pm. I prepared myself for the worst when I crossed the border into Laos... and didn't see any rain until the fourth day of my stay. It wasn't even nearly as bad as the Chiang Mai torrents.
The rainy season in Laos lasts from May until the end of September, exactly when most of us have time to travel to Asia. It's around 30 degrees Celsius every day and when it actually does rain it's nice and refreshing. It was nowhere near as bad as I was told. In fact, the weather was better than in Thailand. Laos was the place where I finally stopped being pale as a ghost and actually got a bit of a tan!

#3: The views mate, THE VIEWS
I've visited every continent except Africa, so it takes quite a bit to impress me. Laos impressed me effortlessly though. My jaw dropped when I saw the Pak Ou caves nestled into the side of the mountains that rise straight up from the waters of the Mekong. I loved cycling through the countryside with hills in the distance and water buffaloes in fields on both sides of the road. But most impressive of all was the Vientiane district with its mountains. They were so beautiful I lack the vocab skills to properly describe them. They looked like Ha Long Bay without water. With fog coming up from the jungle below it's nothing short of majestic. I'm telling you, the views in Laos are among the best in the world.


#4: There's more history than you'd expect
Everyone knows about Vietnam. Not because of a very fun reason, but everyone knows a little bit about Vietnam's history. Now I dare you to name on historical fact about Laos. Not much that comes to mind, is there? Trust me, that's just because we don't learn about it in the western world. Laos has a long history of one ruler kicking out the other, armies clashing, Asian oppressors and in the middle of all that chaos is the rise of Buddhism.
More recently it was a French colony: together Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia were French Indochina. Of course the French have left their mark, but did you know the Americans did so too? Sadly that was in the form of bombs during the Vietnam War. Yes, Laos played a role in that too, as the Ho Chi Minh Trail led right trough it.
Now if that kind of history isn't your thing and you like some more mystery to your history, you should visit the Plain of Jars. This plain on a plateau in the Xiang Khoang district is filled with big stone jars which have been there for an eternity. No one knows why or how the jars got there, but they're now one of the main historical landmarks of Laos. So you see, whatever kind of history you're looking for, you'll find it in Laos.

#5: The food is freaking good
This year it came to my attention that a lot of people are obsessed with Thai food. It's good, I'll admit that much, but the food in Laos is the food that immediately comes to mind when I think of the best meals of this summer. The pizza is perfect, they're geniuses when it comes to potatoes and spinach, but the best thing ever was the pork with garlic, which was put on my table by accident one night. I ordered it every night after., it was just too good. The local specialty lap Lao was nothing special according to my dad, but still something to try if you're ever in the area. And if you're not sure what to do for breakfast or lunch, don't worry: the people of Laos have taken the art of the French baguette and brought it to the next level!


So long story short: good food, good views, loads of history. Sunshine for days in the rainy season and every step you take is a new adventure. What more could you possibly want? It's pretty much the perfect destination, one very few people have ever visited, but everyone who likes the unknown should visit asap. So go and give Laos some love. It deserves it.

x Envy
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12 Fellow Ramblers

A year ago I started talking to a guy I liked. We met up in Rotterdam, hung out on the riverbank and soon realized there was more than just friendship between us. On the same day the king of Thailand died we officially became a couple. I was swept into his world, the world of mental health blogging and stigma-breaking. You see, this guy had several mental health issues and talked about them quite a lot. Because of him I met other mental health bloggers online. I thought they were doing a great job, but soon noticed no one ever wrote about what it's like to be a mentally healthy person in a relationship with someone suffering from a mental illness. I decided that would be my task, but couldn't put pen to paper after we broke up within four months. I didn't want my emotions to make this post sound bitter and angry. Now, a year since that relationship started, I feel like I can tell my story. It's not a fun story, it's one that is often overseen, but nonetheless I feel like this story needs to be told. Which is exactly what I'm going to do today.

When I met my ex-boyfriend he had a triple diagnosis of severe depression, generalized anxiety disorder and obsessive compulsive disorder. Me being me, I couldn't care less about that diagnosis. I quickly took a liking to him because we could talk about literally anything, so the diagnosis wasn't all that important to me. I just wanted to know how those mental illnesses affected his everyday life and I made sure I knew what to do in case his mental illnesses decided to mess with him while he was with me. My ex told me it was unusual for people to prepare themselves for meet-ups that way, but to me it seemed like the normal thing to do. Because of all this I always made sure I knew where the closest calm place in the city was so he could overcome a panic attack in a quiet place and always carried a bottle of water with me, as he'd told me he liked to have some water in case of a panic attack. Luckily nothing ever happened when we spent time together. No OCD ticks, no panic attacks, nothing.

For a while everything was fine. Sure, there were some difficult days when I woke up in the morning to a text saying he really couldn't get out of bed because of his depression, or that he'd cried for hours after I'd fallen asleep. That hurt me, because he lived on the other side of the country and I couldn't physically be there for him the way I want to be when someone I love is in pain. I did what I could, but was often met with texts saying things like "You have no influence on the way I feel".
Painful as those days were, they made me appreciate the good days so much more. It's funny how I celebrated my ex getting out of bed or achieving a goal on social media. I appreciated little things more, not just in his life but also in mine. I noticed myself being proud of small things I succeeded at, because they were so much more valuable when someone else's depression has so much influence on your life. It made the good days a weird kind of wonderful. But I think Emeli Sandé said it best when she sang: "When it was good it was amazing, but the bad was devastating."

Then the bad came. The serious bad. It wasn't just my ex's mental health that made our relationship difficult in December 2016. It was also the physical distance between us and me slowly breaking down. I was doing a degree course that made me unhappy, my internship school couldn't provide me with the time and knowledge I needed and there was a research project that stole every minute of my free time. My self esteem was crumbling, I was getting panic attacks myself and needed help and support. I didn't tell my ex, who had told me he wouldn't be able to be there for me if I needed him because he needed to take care of himself and his mental health. So I struggled on, mostly because a moment's hesitation would have horrible consequences for my college career. It made me unhappy, cranky and negative. It was the latter that got so bad that I was getting annoyed with myself, wanting to change because I was doing my own head in. When I told my ex he thought I wanted to make the change in an effort to convince him to stay with me. He annoyed me in that moment. To no end. I wanted to change for me, to make sure I could be strong enough for both of us. In that moment, it felt like he didn't want to...

Now you might be wondering why I'm telling all this, as it has very little to do with my ex-boyfriend's mental health. My point is that these circumstances affected us as well, in particular me. Around the same time my ex's diagnosis was topped up with post traumatic stress disorder and bipolar disorder. I was pretty relaxed under that diagnosis and thought I'd take things as they came.
Here it gets tricky for me, as I don't know what was caused by his mental illnesses, what was caused by his character and what wasn't. So I'll try to write this in a more observing way, looking back on the past without judging. I'm truly sorry if I fail though, but it's difficult to be objective about mental health in general as it's different for everyone.

So my ex was going through a dark time while I was struggling myself. Something seemed to have changed. He started saying: "I don't know if we can be together if my mental health stays the same." When I said I missed him he wouldn't say it back to me because he was depressed "and I'm not saying it if I don't feel it." His 'I love you's became less frequent, then almost completely stopped. He kept repeating he needed to be selfish and take care of himself before getting into a relationship, that we might have to end it soon so he could work on himself. There is nothing scarier than hearing your boyfriend say "I don't know what my true feelings are". Because how can he love you if that's the case? 
I felt he was slipping away. When trying to plan a small weekend getaway he'd say: "But that's still far away and I don't know if we'll still be together by then." He often said he couldn't text or Skype me because he was depressed, but tweeted for long stretches with other bloggers. It all confused me, and my at the time undiagnosed inferiority complex told me he was acting this way because I hadn't been a good girlfriend for him. I still tried to be there for him whenever I could, although I wasn't even strong enough enough to keep myself on my feet anymore by the time 2017 rolled around.

We broke up in late January of this year. He couldn't handle the combination of my inferiority complex and giftedness that was troubling me, because he already had enough to worry about himself. I ended up completely broken and alone, thinking I had only needed a break from him, not a breakup. I didn't get back on my feet until I was helped back up by some awesome people in the Thai jungle.

Looking back on the whole thing now, I'm glad I'm not in that relationship anymore. I'm not saying you shouldn't date someone with a mental illness. In fact, I think you'd be stupid not to give it a try when you really like someone. Just know that it'll be hard, very hard at times, and that it might end up in heartbreak. But still, if love comes your way and brings mental illness along, don't immediately slam that door shut; you might just miss out on the most amazing person you'll ever meet


x Envy
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18 Fellow Ramblers

"It'll be fun,' he said. My dad (who's probably reading this. Hi dad!) often has good ideas when we're traveling. This wasn't one of them. But with us being so stereotypically Dutch it almost hurts, we just had to rent bicycles. I mean, when in the history of anything had bicycles not been a good idea? Well, we were about to find out.

On the day we were going to rent our bikes, I had a tiny little storm cloud above my head. I was sure that a nice bicycle ride would lift my spirits. I was in Luang Prabang, in the north of Laos, the first place I've ever immediately called 'picturesque' in my mind. I already saw myself cycling through streets lined with colonial era guest houses and banana trees, along the Mekong river.
My dad had different plans. He'd heard about a waterfall on the other side of the Mekong, about 15 kilometers away. I grumpily agreed. Grumpily because I just had a bad mood. Agreed because I was up for an adventure and just taking the ferry to the opposite river bank already sounded like one.
Not knowing what kind of roads we'd face, we hoped to rent some mountainbikes. A few gears would come in handy, we thought. Apparently so did every other tourist in Luang Prabang. We had to settle for some regular bikes instead and went on our way.

As I'd already expected, the ferry ride to the other side of the Mekong was already an adventure in itself. Getting onto that boat included jumping over a puddle and a lot of mud, bicycle in hand, while the loacals watch in amusement when they see you've rented a regular bicycle. The short trip across the water itself was nice and calm. The boat had a bit of an unreliable steering system, but we made it across and back without dying, so I'm not complaining. No, the thing I was complaining about was the freakishly steep incline on the other side of the river. After fently slamming right into it the boat was ready to be disembarked and my dad and I were expected to somehow make it up to the top of a hill that had a road made of freaking broken pieces of rock.
It felt like ages before I made it to the top of the hill. All my hopes of finding a nice smooth road evaporated right then and there. I was pretty sure my dad and I would never cycle 15 kilometers on those roads. Fifteen minutes after reaching the top of the hill the roads still hadn't gotten any better and we hadn't cycled a single meter yet because it was simply impossible. Believe me, when the Dutch can't cycle a road, no one can.
I was getting pretty fed-up with the whole thing. If I'd been alone I would have turned around, taken the ferry back and cycle through Luang Prabang instead. But I wasn't alone. I was there with my dad, who eventually found a place where the road became a more or less solid dirt road. Never before have I been so happy to cycle on a dirt road that occassionally was covered with rocks. It was a flat tire waiting to happen. The tiny thundercloud above my head slowly disappeared though. Then I looked around, realized where I was, and it disappeared completely.

There were water buffolos on the side of the road. Hills far of in the distance. Laos' countryside was aggravatingly hard to cycle through, but also breathtakingly beautiful. I didn't care about all the dust I got in my eyes every time a car passed me by, about the amount of times I had to get off my bike because the hills were to steep to climb. The dust would settle down and I'd see the amazing view again. The hills might be steep, but eventually the road would go down on the other side again. Every time it did I smiled as I soared down the hill, locals yelling at me, probably worried that I'd fall. It was amazing.


Eventually my dad and I arrived at a river, which seemed a little difficult to cross by bicycle. We decided to stop there for lunch and cycle back to Luang Prabang afterwards. We saw locals using the river as bathtub, washing machine and sink all at once. We saw motorbikes get stuck in the potholes of the river crossing, after which my dad just had to try it on his bicycle. Spoiler alert: his feet got very wet.
The river seemed to be a good point to turn around, and so we did. I was just thinking how lucky we were not to have gotten a flat tire or accident yet, when we plummeted down a hill and the chain of my dad's bike flew off. Yup, bike fixing in the middle of nowhere in the Lao countryside, it had to be done. Definitely a unique experience.


After a few minutes of messing with the chain my dad managed to fix his bike and we returned to the ferry. I felt like I'd die making my way back down that slope. I'd hated the first fifteen minutes of the trip, I'd cursed at every single car that passed me by and I was pretty sure cycling in the countryside wasn't the best idea ever. But I'd seen water buffalos. I'd felt free as I'd raced down those hills. I'd secretly laughed my ass off when my dad's bike broke. I'd enjoyed the Lao countryside more than I'd ever imagined. It was the weirdest and probably most dangerous bike ride I'd ever been on, but it was completely worth it.


x Envy
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8 Fellow Ramblers

'You've got to be kidding me.' Those were the first words that came to mind when my slow boat arrived at the port of Luang Prabang in Laos. There was nothing there except for an inflatable dock, a staircase into the jungle and a sign saying that it was indeed the port of Luang Prabang. It was my second day in Laos and I was kind of afraid Luang Prabang would be a disappointment. Judging by the port there wouldn't be much to do... And I had 48 hours to kill... Luckily my first impression of Luang Prabang couldn't be further from it's true awesomeness.

As it turned out, the port is just a bit of a fake thing to make tourists pay for a tuktuk ride to the peninsula where all the touristy stuff is. I didn't mind (I can almost hear my dad think: That's because you didn't have to pay for it), because I really like tuktuks. It took us to, well, some place. No idea exactly where we were and the driver couldn't explain either. So with a Lonely Planet in hand my parents and I  wandered onto the peninsula to find a place to stay. The first thing we came across was the night market. It's totally aimed at tourists and I loved it. It was extremely Instagrammable. If I hadn't been backpacking I probably would've doubled the weight of my luggage with handmade stationery and little lanterns with fairy lights in them. It's a wonderful busy place after sunset, which I'd recommend visiting. Especially if you still need some cute souvenirs to take home.

My parents and I checked into one of the many guest houses on the peninsula, got some food and sorted tickets to Vientiane and Phnom Penh out the next morning. Then my dad and I rented bicycles. There are lots of places that rent out bikes for practically no money and an ID as deposit (expired student IDs are fine too). The peninsula is a great place to ride a bike. It's calm, there isn't too much traffic (for an Asian city) and it feels like cycling on a Caribbean island. Most tourists stay on the peninsula, but it's easy to discover more of Luang Prabang by bike. My dad and I, stubborn Dutch people as we are, decided to go to the other side of the Mekong river to cycle there. That wasn't the best idea, but it made for an awesome story for another day.


I spent the rest of that first day buying souvenirs and almost passing out. Turns out I don't handle a combination of heat and hunger well at all. A bit of pork with garlic from an alleyway restaurant later I was fine thought and the next day I was all set and ready for the excursions we'd book.

Early in the morning we took a small boat back up the Mekong. I tried to take a nap, as it was the exact same route we'd taken with the slow boat, but couldn't sleep because of a plus-sized woman going from the left to the right of the boat and back to take pictures. I was fairly sure she'd make the already not too stable boat tip over by switching sides every few minutes, but luckily that didn't happen and I even managed to sleep for a few minutes.
After what could've been hours or maybe minutes (I have no idea since I lost all track of time) we arrived at the Pak Ou Caves. These caves are accessible from the rive and are home to over 4000 Buddha icons. It's been a sacred place for centuries, where locals come to pray. We had to pay a small entrance fee, then also made to small donations. In exchange for the donations I got a small orange candle which I could burn on an altar. It was there, in the lower Tham Ting Cave, that I prayed for the first time in my life and started to get a little bit into Buddhism.
Once the candle had been burned I started the steep climb to Tham Theung, the upper cave. The upper cave is darker, creepier and also filled with Buddha icons - and for some unknown reason one of a penis. I would've liked to spend more time in the upper cave to take some good pictures, but had to rush to catch the boat back to Luang Prabang.


A short lunch break in Luang Prabang later we got into a minivan that brought us to what everyone simply calls 'The Waterfall'. It's officially called Kuang Si Falls, but The Waterfall will do just fine, everyone will understand what you're talking about. Again we had to pay a small entrance fee, but this time the minivan driver tried to scam us. Luckily I'd learned to count to four in Lao, so my dad and I managed to make clear we wanted the money he took for the fourth ticket back, because there were only three of us. When that was all cleared up we entered the park, which had both a bear rescue and the Kuang Si Falls as tourist attraction. I walked straight to the waterfall because I desperately wanted a swim. Yet when I arrived at the lowest tier of the waterfall I forgot all about swimming. The waterfall was the most beautiful waterfall I'd ever seen. The water was a beautiful shade of turquoise, there was a fine mist in the air and the tropical trees and plants all around made it look like paradise. It was a true photographer's dream. And as soon as I dipped one toe into the water I decided to stick with photography because the water was freaking cold. Totally worth the visit though. Instagram aesthetics, you know.

Back in Luang Prabang my dad and I decided to climb the random staircase on the peninsula that had been calling our names since the minute we arrived there. It led to a legendary stupa, a building that contains a Buddhist relic, which had been put there by the god Hanuman because he apparently liked it better in Laos than in Sri Lanka. We paid yet small another entrance fee and suddenly found ourselves completely surrounded by a mob of tourists once we reached the stupa. The sun was about to set and the stupa is the most popular place in Luang Prabang to see it happen, which my dad and I neither knew, nor cared about. It was a cloudy day anyway, so my dad and I admired the stupa that all the other tourists ignored.

By the time we came back down from the stupa I was pretty tired. As we walked back to our guest house I took my final pictures of Luang Prabang's peninsula. It was such a relaxed place with so many beautiful views. I could've easily filled my memory card then and there.
Close to the guest house I came across Big Brother Mouse, a small local publishing house that works hard at providing Lao children in the entire Luang Prabang region with quality books in their own language. Every day they organize free English classes for the local schoolchildren and invite tourists to come and practice with them. Your accent doesn't matter. The children are really good at speaking English and are used to accents. I'm ashamed to admit I was too chicken to join in, but if you're ever in Luang Prabang and want to make a small positive change in the world, go to Big Brother Mouse at 9am or 5pm. It'll be much appreciated.

That night marked the end of my 48 hour stay in Luang Prabang. The next morning we'd take the bus to Vientiane. I already knew I was going to miss Luang Prabang; it was busy and lively, but not crazy and crowded like most Asian cities. It's one of those place I hope to see again one day.

x Envy
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Do I talk about Deadpool too much? I feel like I talk about him a lot, but I don't think there's such a thing as too much Deadpool. At least that's what I thought after finishing Dead Presidents, the first installment in Deadpool's Marvel Now relaunch. It's fast-paced, pretty illogical and 100% awesome in pure Deadpool style. Let me tell you why.

First of all this is the perfect place to start for anyone who's new to Marvel comics and liked the Deadpool movie (which features a lot less insanity than the comics by the way). It's the first book in the new series, so you get a quick into to the Deadpool character and his powers and you're good to go. No references you'll miss, just an epic killing spree for you to read. You see, in this comic the US has gone to shit because of politics and such dividing the people. As this originally came out in 2013 I believe Marvel has predictive powers when it comes to the Trump situation.
Anyway, in this story a true American patriot in a kilt decides to resurrect America's dead presidents and let them fix the situation. This doesn't work out, as the resurrected presidents are evil. For no apparent reason. Because they needed some kind of plot, probably. So these dead presidents go on a rampage and SHIELD needs someone to stop them, i.e. make them dead again. Sending American heroes like Captain America won't go down well with the public, so agent Preston hires Deadpool, who's Canadian (fun trivia for your next wannabe geeky pub quiz). Deadpool goes after all these presidents to end their life once again and that's really all there is to this book. Perfect pick if you want to read something but don't want to think about it too much.


Even though I liked Dead Presidents a lot and it's a good starting point, I think a few warnings wouldn't be out of place her.
If you're squeamish, this is not the comic for you. You get some wonderful views of Deadpool's insides when they're no longer inside of him. There are a lot of bloody deaths and flying body parts. A few dead animals and one burning elephant as well. And let's be honest, Deadpool's skin has never been a pretty sight.
As for the presidents... If you're not American or haven't spent a decent part of your life in the US, you'll have no idea which presidents are getting killed. In my Dutch high school I was that weird kid who could name all the American presidents from the past century, including nicknames, and still I didn't recognize half of the presidents. At some point I started mentally referring to them as 'fat guy in bath tub', 'old guy in ugly suit', 'old guy with ugly beard' and such. The more obscure presidents are introduced and the presidents that get some real screen time are the more well-known ones. Still, if you're not into US history you'll miss some jokes, not to mention the significance of certain settings and actions.


Now we've got that out of the way I can talk to you about the art. This is what I refer to as solid art. It's good, but nothing extremely mind-blowing. Way better than Deadpool vs Thanos though, but that's probably because I just don't like that artist's style. Tony Moore's style however is one I do appreciate. Very detailed, which does make the comic look a little bit disturbing at times. Especially when it comes to some guts hanging out of a certain anti-hero or a fat president in a bath tub. But hey, making things look seriously disgusting requires quite a lot of talent too.
The entire book was drawn by Moore, so the artwork and style is consistent. It always confuses me when a different artist does one or two issues in the middle of a collected edition comic, like in Miss Marvel, so I was glad that didn't happen here. Moore gave us high quality art and quite a few full-page images which are just a bit better than the regular pages.

The full-page images were a big plus for me in this case. Okay, they always are, but this time my artsy side needed them because there weren't that many extras at the end of the book. And I just need my visual extras. Instead of loads of visual extras you get a few pages of fan mail this time, which Deadpool answers. That's already a hilarious concept, but it gets even better when Deadpool rips the complaining fanboys apart. I believe that's the kind of stuff I live for.


Usually I also like to use some fancy words on character development at this point of the review, but not this time. As this is the first book after the relaunch, it mostly focuses on establishing the main characters. So we mainly see Deadpool being a bit of an ass, but a funny one. Doctor Strange also makes an appearance, but didn't stick around long enough to impress me. Keep an eye out for agent Preston though; she'll be around for much longer than you'd expect and is one of the female characters I can't help but admire. There isn't much more to say about the characters for now though. I guess character development will happen at some point in the next issues.

So I've come to the end of this review and realized I have no rating system or anything. Quite unprofessional. To finish this in Deadpool style, I'll give Dead Presidents three out of five chimichangas. Enjoyable, great if you're a newbie with a strong stomach, but not for you if you're looking for a comic with just that little bit extra.

x Envy
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About me


Envy. Dutch blogger. Est. 1996. No relation to the famous biblical sin. Worst bio writer on this side of the blogospere. Lives on cookies, apple juice and art. Friendly unless confronted with pineapple on pizza. Writes new nonsense every Thursday.

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      • Visiting Vientiane? But Why?
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