As the day went on (and all the bananas were gone) the elephants decided to go for a walk. We followed them straight through the jungle, up and down hills, through an ant hill (and yes, those bastards bit me) and eventually down to the open space next to the river, where the humans had lunch while the elephants continued their clumsy way up and down the hills.
After lunch we got into a riceless rice paddy with the elephants to give them a mud bath, which soon turned into a mud fight. It was glorious, despite one of the elephants pooping in the water.

I don't remember whose idea it was to do a jungle trek near Chiang Mai in the north of Thailand. It was probably my dad's idea, and any idea that includes running through jungles can count on my approval. We'd booked our three day trek at the Oasis hostel in Bangkok, were picked up early in the morning at the Wualei hostel in Chiang Mai and then... The chaos ensued.

The Thai aren't the biggest fans of systems is what I learned on that first day. I ended up in a taxi with people who were going to do a half day elephant tour, people who were going to do a one day jungle trek and Dutch people who were going to do a two day trek. Everyone had to sign a list, then everyone had to get out of the car except for all the people with a Dutch passport. There was no logic whatsoever. In fact that's one thing you'll have to accept when you go to Southeast Asia: there's not much logic to be seen.
In the end we became part of a group full of Dutch people, one Canadian guy called Graham, Louis from France and Julie from Austria. Of course the Dutch immediately flocked together and spoke nothing but Dutch, which made me feel bad for the others and the tour guide. I quickly became friends with Julie and spoke more German on that first day than in the previous six months in college where I was supposed to learn the language. Julie and I stuck together, joined by Louis and Graham. I enjoyed their company so much more than that of the Dutch people. Within an hour the group was split in an international group and a Dutch group. The international group was much more fun of course.

Our split group followed our guide through the jungle, where he tried to explain things. He probably would have done a great job if only his English had been a little bit better. He mostly said things like: "No tiger Thai jungle. Tiger barbecue!" We soon noticed he really liked barbecue, because he wanted to barbecue every animal we came across. "Look, cow. Cow barbecue!" With this constant commentary on animals we could barbecue in the background we went to a hill tribe village ("Pig in village. Pig barbecue!") and went swimming in a waterfall. Eventually when we stopped for lunch we didn't barbecue anything. We had rice wrapped in banana leaves. It was a very basic lunch, but the thought of it still makes my mouth water.


Late in the afternoon we arrived at the Karen Lodge where we'd spend the night. The lodge was in fact one big doorless hut, with a big front porch. I couldn't believe my own eyes when I walked down the path to the lodge: on the front porch was Chris, a Dutch guy who'd stayed at both the Oasis and the Wualei hostel while I was there and whom I didn't expect to ever see again, let alone see again in the Thai jungle. He was there with a Scottish guy whose name was so complicated that just thinking it makes my tongue break in half. Thanks to them the international group became just a little bit more international.
To be honest it was quite sad how much most Dutch people kept to themselves. It didn't get better when a group of French guys arrived. Dutch people on the far end of the table, international group at the opposite end and the French inbetween. Safe to say the international group had by far the most fun. Cats were hugged and accidentally kicked, Scottish accents were imitated and caused loads of confusion, we made loads of triggering jokes after Graham went to 'hang his stuff' and talked about everything we could think of. This night changed me. These people changed me. They helped me see that people who shut me out when I need them most don't deserve me in their lives. That every love is different. That a gap year isn't a wasted year as long as I don't let it. When I went to bed that night I felt happy, truly happy without any sadness lingering in the back of my mind, for the first time since November 2016.

The next morning I went back to being sad. All these amazing people I'd met were doing a two day trek and I was doing three days, so I'd have to say goodbye. Right? Or not? Again, chaos ensued. First Chris and the Scot were supposed to go with us, despite the two day/three day thing. Then they weren't. Then Louis and Julie would join me on the second day. Then they wouldn't. Then they would. And when the confusion reached its peak the entire group, Dutchies and everyone else, left together and hiked the same path. At a point where the path split, Louis and Julie were told to come with me and my parents - after Julie and I'd already said our emotional goodbyes. No one understood this logic, but as I said before, there is little logic in this part of the world at times.


So I spent my second jungle day with Julie, my parents, a new guide who kept shouting "oh my god, OH MY BUDDHA!" and... well, I didn't spend the day with Louis because we kept losing him. He'd walk ahead and then we wouldn't see him for ages. We spent what felt like half the day yelling: "Louis! Where are you?!" To be honest, that was pretty much all that happened that day. We gate chrashed a few rice paddies, slipped down a ton of hills when it started raining and eventually made it to the village where my parents and I would spend the night. There Julie and I said our emotional goodbyes for the second time that day. And then... I was alone.

Okay, I admit it. My parents were there and we were staying with locals, so there were people. But I was missing my friends. On top of that I was dying with pain thanks to an ingrown toenail. It's when I write sentences like this that I realize I'm literally the least charming travel blogger out there, but jungle trekking isn't all fun and games. In the end it was all fine though. Staying with locals is really something else. My hostess kept using my flip flops, the food was awesome and I got to sleep under one of those nets you put over your food to keep flies from sitting on it. Quite the experience.


One short night later my parents and I were ready for our last day. We'd walk for a while, go to an elephant sanctuary, then end the trek with bamboo rafting. So we walked. And walked. And walked. And somehow managed to pick up a dog along the way. Don't ask me why, don't ask me how, but this little stray do followed us for miles. My mom decided to name him Skippy. Everything was awesome as long as Skippy was with us. Then we were picked up by a car, Skippy chased it but wasn't fast enough and that marked our descent into chaos once again. You see, because we'd go to an elephant sanctuary the next day as well, the people who organised this trek had cut the elephants out of the trek program. After a furious phone call from my dad we were brought to elephants, but that's another story for another day.

The end of the trek was near when I was standing in the back of a pickup truck pretending to be on the Titanic. We were dropped near a river, where I climbed aboard a bamboo raft. Bamboo rafting is nothing white water rafting. It's calmer, you don't have to do anything except sitting and not freaking out when you see a water snake. It's a nice end to your trek, even though it doesn't feel like a jungle trek thing to do.

After three days in the jungle I returned to Chiang Mai. I stank, my toe hurt like hell and I was craving a hamburger like crazy. To say I was exhausted wouldn't be an exaggeration. My head hurt from all the chaos and broken English. But every second was totally worth it. 1/1 Envy Fishers would do it again.

When I arrived in Bangkok on my 21st birthday I had the aftermath of an inferiority complex dragging me down, the ghost of an ex haunting me and a failure that wasn't a failure to anyone but me crushing me. Did I expect to be happy, or at least feel okay while I was in Bangkok? No sir, absolutely not. I'd prepared myself for countless hours of crying. And the I found myself in the soi, the side streets of Samsen Road, and things changed. It started with the most amazing piece of street art by Dutch artists Edo Rath and my personal favourite Ox Alien. That seemed like a good omen to me. Not much later I found a few places not far off that wall where, to my own surprise, I felt happy. These places helped me get back on my feet when I was lost and down in a strange country on the other side of the world. And who knows, maybe you'll find some happiness in these places too!

As it turned out, the guy was right: I stayed at The Oasis Hostel twice. It's a nice clean place with the best beds I've slept on while I was in Thailand.The rooms may not be huge, but there's plenty of space to hang out in the yard. They play music in the yard as well, not too loud, just loud enough to have something in the background. Literally the only thing I didn't love about the yard is that the fake grass stays damp for about a day after a rain shower. So one day I put my backpack on the grass, the water was absorbed by my backpack and everything that wasn't covered in plastic suffered a little water damage - including my notes for this post... People are just hanging out in the yard all the time and if you're a bit socially awkward like me the staff will draw you into the conversation and make you feel so welcome. There are usually loads of Dutch people staying at The Oasis, but please don't think of that as a bad thing; we're pretty awesome.
Big plus at The Oasis is the link with OnPoint Travel, run by a Canadian and an Australian guy living in Thailand. They helped us plan our trip all the way from Bangkok to Luang Prabang in Laos. They saved us from at least a dozen panic attacks with their service.
Last but not least: you're super close to all the landmarks and Khao San Road, but far enough away to enjoy some peace and quiet.
(Tye, you owe me a beer now! ;) )
You can choose between pan-fried breakfasts served in really cute pans, fruit salads and pancakes. I've never had a more healthy breakfast than when I was staying in Bangkok. The fruit you buy in Europe has nothing on the fruit served in Thailand. Topped with yoghurt it's probably like the breakfast they serve in heaven. My absolute favorite dish were the banana pancakes with chocolate though. They actually put banana in the batter and this makes the pancakes so much more amazing. The best news of all: the place is open till 2pm so you can have both breakfast and lunch here.


The first few days in Bangkok I had trouble eating, but here that wasn't a problem. The spring rolls were perfect for my upset stomach and I'm still craving them to this day. But if you find yourself at Saam House Restaurant, order the chicken with cashew nuts. It's delicious. The chicken is so tender it almost falls apart in your mouth.
One thing though: if the menu says a dish is spicy, it really is spicy. To the point where tears stream down your face, as my dad found out. Though that might have been his own fault for eating a chilli pepper whole because he'd mistaken it for a piece of tomato. Lucky for him to fruit shakes at Saam House do a great job at extinguishing chilli pepper fire. Do yourself a favor and order a banana, mango, pineapple or watermelon shake with your chicken. You won't be disappointed. I swear, when mankind invents teleportation devices, Bangkok is the first place I'll go, just for Saam House Restaurant.

Honestly, happiness was the last thing I expected to find in Bangkok. Not in a hostel, not in restaurants. But I did. I had some relapses and breakdowns those first few days in Thailand, but these places helped me find my feet in my new gap year situation. Good food and good company, that's all you need in life, isn't it? I hope you'll find those things here too if you ever visit Bangkok.

Here's the thing about Thailand: every twenty-something who wants to show off and try to be a traveller goes there. When they come back it's all one big success story of a wonderful time with a little bit too much alcohol and a whole lot of awesome people.
Here's another thing about Thailand: every traveller over thirty is also completely obsessed with the place. Nothing but great reviews from them: 'Thailand has the most amazing nature/culture/cities!'
Now don't get me wrong, I like Thailand too. I can see where all those people are coming from. Thailand is pretty great. But to be honest, all I can do is laugh when I hear others talk about their trip to Thailand as they went to heaven on earth. Where are all the practical, funny and somewhat gross things about travelling in Thailand? Well, in case you're wondering the same thing, here they are! Because travelling in Thailand is pretty awesome, but there are some thing you should know before you go!
While we're on the topic: I like toilets with toilet paper. I know that's a weird thing to say, but think about it: you appreciate toilet paper too and you probably don't realize it until there is none. Which could totally happen in Thailand. Sometimes there's toilet paper, sometimes there isn't. Sometimes when there is toilet paper you can't flush it because it'll clog that toilet and you'll have to throw it in a bin next to the toilet instead (wonderfully hygienic, I know). Sometimes there's no bin and you have to flush it anyway. But wait, there's more! Sometimes your toilet is just a hole in the ground, like in France! In that case you have to scoop water out of a bucket to 'flush' the toilet. So you see, going to the toilet can become quite a complicated situation. Do check what kind of toilet situation you're dealing with before you find yourself needing a bathroom and not having all the... let's say 'necessary equipment'.

Now what happened to me was this: for one night we stayed with locals in a mountain village near Chiang Mai. As usual I'd left my flip flops outside. When I had to go to the bathroom, they were gone. Then my hostess walked past me - on my flip flops! After a while, when she didn't need them anymore, she put them back and I quickly put them on. When I returned to the room, she was wearing my mom's flip flops. Moral of the story: keep an eye on your freaking flip flops!

There are 7Elevens at the corner of just about every street. You can apply for a visa upon arrival. Most of the stray dogs are adorable, some, just a few, are pure evil. Boats are safe, even though they might look like floating death traps. The humidity will try to kill you. Women can't come close to monks (no idea why). There are loads of small travel agencies where you can easily by tickets to other places in Thailand. Stepping on money with the king's face on it is a big NO. Wear a shirt with sleeves and long pants when you want to visit a temple. And did I mention the humidity will try to kill you?

As you can see travelling in Thailand isn't all rainbows and unicorns. Rain and elephants would be more appropriate in this case. But with a bit of preparation you'll have the time of your life in the kingdom of Thailand!